Chris's Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions*: *Note: If you are using your Sniper to control ignition timing then I recommend that before you start this process you disable idle spark control If you are trying to do this while the ECU is simultaneously trying to bring your idle under control by adjusting the advance it is going to be counter-productive. mean that the IAC is causing it. Even though the Sniper's fuel map is programmed to provide the correct amount of fuel via injectors spraying at 60 PSI, if the pressure is jacked up to 90 PSI the wideband sees that you are rich and faster than you can even detect it audibly lowers the duty cycle to inject the correct amount of fuel. 30 minutes later CTS reads 161, start engine Idle is jumping from 450 (almost stall) to 1500, IAC is jumping all over 10 90. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Note that Brazilian gasoline has 27% ethyl alcohol. But if I take off from a stop and go to 1/4 or 1/2 throttle its fine and takes off like a banshee. The tps will not auto reset to zero. It is working fine when you restart the car, controlling idle perfectly at 8 steps open so it is unlikely to fail when the car warms up--or correct itself instantly when you restart it..So, if you don't have any vacuum leak, and the throttle plates are fully closed, the only thing I can guess is something is causing your ignition timing to change. What you are experiencing is rather common. I did notice that when I thought I had it set Lubricate the linkage so there isn't as much native resistance. A question I cannot get a 100% answer on is can you piggy back off the Sniper EFI TPS for an electronic transmission? EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. close to idle with the IAC between 2% & 12%. The noise is definitely coming OUT of the throttle body. Holley Sniper high RPM - IAC problem? You have to remove all hoses in order to debug the problem. Intake has been on and off 3 times no change. Have you checked your fuel filter and made sure it's not plugged?If both of these are okay you're going to have to find a way to monitor your fuel pressure while under load. Does that make sense to you? (I'm running from a fuel cell on the garage floor 10 feet away with lines in plain sight and do see fuel coming from the return at a decent flow. Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. port that goes right on the inlet of your Sniper and makes installation a breeze.If your fuel pressure is solid at about 60 PSI then you should start looking at We'll also be contacting you for future purchases now that I've discovered you! Please check your process again and see if you can see very specifically what is not working correctly. I did check for the lightning under the hood but all was well. I'm new to EFI and have no idea what to try next. lower until I turn down the set screw. In the Wizard, select the stock cam setting. That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. Hello. Bryan McTaggart 02/28/2023 news After 50 on the throttle position I'm not sure if the whistle goes away or you just can't here it anymore. Bolt-on carburetor style EFI for your classic car or truck. As I said above, you could have a bad IAC, but then again, the IAC might be fine and there's a deeper problem such as RFI noise causing the issue or a vacuum leak that is confusing things. The engine runs beautifully, with perfect idle at 650 RPM, but every now and then I hear the IAC give a sort of "snap" and the idle is at 1200 RPM. Even 50 RPM can make a difference in how much impact the transition to Drive has on the idling engine's ability to stay at a fixed RPM.I would not recommend it in this situation but anytime a "kick" in idle speed is desired that is easily done by setting the kick value in Tuning > Advanced > Adv. After only running for about 15 minutes or so the system starts to fail stalling the motor. to. TPS% = 1 You might even want to add our 4-foot extension harness that will allow you to connect/disconnect the display or CAN-to-USB adapter from inside the car (rather than trying to do that leaning over the engine and under the breather. If you can send a data log to the vendor from who you bought your Sniper EFI System they should be willing and able to take a look and recognize RFI and then give you some ideas on solving it. You're going to have to clean up the wiring in your engine compartment, In particular, look for spark plug wires that might be running near your throttle position sensor. Hey Chris, I installed a Holley sniper on a small block 400, first start was great! Camshaft is M-6250-B303 .480 lift intake & exhaust, duration at .050 is 224 degrees for intake & exhaust. If the TPS reading on your Sniper EFI System does not reset to zero that is a problem that needs to be addressed. What I would recommend is getting somewhere that you can spend a significant amount of time doing starts. Do I need to try taping up the IAC port and setting the idle off the idle screw? Once it decides to come back down, it does so with no issue. I am having an issue with the IAC on the Sniper. If the minus 40 degree setting is lower than the setting to the right, simply move it up so that it looks something like this: The folks who have tried this have found that their idle speed control behaves much more as they expect. Then follow all of the instructions above, including confirming the idle speed curve setting at -40 degress as well as following my 10-step process for setting the idle. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). I believe that you have this problem solved now with your new inline filter/regulator. I.e. Going in the direction you did (higher) is going to reduce the acceleration fueling that the engine sees. If the vendor from whom you bought the system is coming up blank on ideas then don't hesitate to contact Holley's outstanding tech support department directly at 866-464-6553. Its on a big block Mopar with stock electronic ignition . I think I figured some of my problems outI'll try to explain. Nice to meet you. Commanding the engine to automatically increase speed when switching into drive is a little scary to me though. Is that normal? Idle : IAC Rampdown : IAC hold positionChange this by maybe 2% in either direction. 34K views 1 year ago Holley Sniper How to Set The IAC Idle air Control in 5 minutes or less. I think you will find that it will learn its way through this. A couple of possibilities that come to mind in order of likelihood: Im having an issue with what I think is the Iac. Holley Idle Air Control Motor Idle Air Control Motor Fits the Following Applications: Sniper EFI 90 mm, 92 mm, 102 mm Throttle Bodies Digital Pro-Jection Systems Avenger 4-bbl TBI Commander 950 Terminator TBI But, if the idle is so high that it is making you crazy then you might try dropping that number just a bit. i'm having is I can't seem to get the truck to run faster than 45 mph at speeds My problem is low idle. So what--you're never going to drive in minus 40 degrees, right? If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. Hello Chris. Your second problem should be a bit more concerning. I'd say make sure you buy from someone who can give you good after-purchase help (hint!) However, I did have another fellow who contacted me that claims he went through three units before he could get one that would talk between the ECU and the Monitor. Once you confirm the operation of your IAC then it's time to read my article on Solving RFI Problems. Maybe here will work better ?Sniper High Fuel PSIMy fuel psi is over 90 according to a brand new Auto Meter pro mechanical gauge tied in at the inlet to the Sniper using an AN adapter.I did the search function on here and found a similar high PSI issue that was fixed by clearing the return line.I have checked the return line hose for kinks and have removed it and blew thru it without any back pressure. Turning it off and back on would reset it, and then it would work as advertised for a while. Let me start with the engine not starting until you press the throttle. Your suggestion to remove the PCV valve is just for diagnosis purposes, right? The timing can drift 0-30 degrees just due to the width of the rotor tip. Using a Snap-on variable timing light so this is why I say timing is perfect. Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. I got it home, checked it all over, everything is hooked up correctly. I had this same exact issue. We are running a Sniper on my mates 355ci small block V8 & so far he is very impressed ! I'm Having trouble with the Sniper on high Idle. Shut off the engine, ensure power to the Sniper is switched off. It would be possible to set up a 1D or 2D table and do something like this, so if you've gotten into these advanced setups then that would be another thing to check.If neither of these work then I'd recommend that you do a data log of the engine idling as the temperature is reaching and then exceeding 200 degrees. Jun 12, 2021. No, the idle speed curve setting isn't something that you normally worry about--and especially not down at minus 40 degrees farenheit. I received from the controller manufacturer greatly understates (at best) the repeated failures of others I know personally who have tried and failed. The first 250-300 miles were amazing as the Sniper EFI worked flawlessly. 680-700.I can't find any reason other than it looses where it is in the firmware with It won't take much! Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive. It will need to see it again and again. This can cause the engine to run rough and may even lead to engine damage. Start by doing the fastest start you can that doesn't bog. If this is the case then I would look particularly close at the IAC hold position and IAC ramp start.Let us know what you find and what works for you! Resistance results in heat and heat results in more resistance. Fought a high idle issue until I changed your idle speed curve fix along with dropping the IAC hold to 10%. If this is the case then some adjustment of the linkage or the butterfly plates themselves is necessary. After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. Is there away to lean the idle out? Cycling the power to the Sniper EFI would cure the problem, but not prevent it from coming back. I appreciate everything you are saying. Give it a watch: https://youtu.be/7SO7-tZn6iw. I'm also having a high idle problem but its different. A few, however, get tangled up getting the idle control working just the way they want. That will at least tell you something. Hello, Chris, thanks for the help.I have not installed the software yet, and I'm having trouble with two cars. Mechanical Fuel Pressure Gauge on the inlet of your Sniper, now is the time. The window you saw in the image above pops up. I've been messing around for a bit trying to eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. OK, I did the baseline idle speed screw setting. I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. You want to ensure that nothing is hung up in there.The only thing that I can think of that would cause the fuel pressure to spike when the motor starts is the increased fuel flow at the higher alternator voltage (jumping from 12.0 to 13.5 volts or so.) Pw. I installed the Holley gauge you suggested in another thread at the fuel input to the TBI, and the fuel pressure is constant around 64 according to the gauge. It reads 0 at idle and when I accelerate it goes up to 30 and makes a loud sucking sound that seems to be holding the car back. The throttle position should be zero. have the system learn the higher speeds? Now I have most of the bugs worked out it runs fine on the highway and around town it's just the idle. Holley Sniper How To Set The IAC (Idle Air Control) in 5 - YouTube TPS 0. Do you have a PCV on the engine? If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. Since that has long been corrected we have moved that information to the bottom of the article.). What should I be looking at to calm this down? I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. :-). To get it to idle the tps is at 2-3-4% even with linkage disconnected and a return spring installed. Also ensure the TPS Position returns to zero at idle, & the IAC Hold Position isn't setup too high. After much diagnosis, I ended up replacing the intake manifold gaskets. The team at Holley has designed the perfect solution for your problems. Duration @.050 is 240 intake 246 exhaust with .574/.578 lift. I've helped folks work through a number of challenges with their Sniper EFI System installations. A common issue we see is a result of poor fuel pump grounding running a eyelet from the pump ground to a rusty or painted surface. The throttle blade adjustment is at 2-6% at hot idle, and with warm engine 185F. first attempt but as it tries to idle down to the target RPMsit can never even And your understanding of how the throttle position affects idle is exactly correct. When stopping, the brakes are unable to overcome the engine so I go to neutral just to stop fighting the engine. Generally, one of two things: a stuck throttle or noise on the TPS signal. Hi Chris thanks in advance for any tips. If you look down and your TPS is 2% then either your throttle is stuck slightly open (which itself will cause the idle-up) or RFI riding on the TPS signal has caused the ECU to see the throttle as open and, as a result, open the IAC to the hold position. Hi Chris , greetings from Down Under (AUS) Just a note on the hi fuel pressure issue . At this time, TPS is 0%, IAC is 50 to 60%. They tell you to ask call Holley. When I drive with warm engine the IAC is at 30% when pushing gas, but shouldn't it be at 0%? I have double checked everythingincluding fuel pressureand have followed the directions to a T.I plan on trying your 10 step process as soon as I get a chance. I, too, wish you'd bought your Sniper from us! I had that problem, right out of the box it would not power up, sent it back in, had defective hand held. The fix? I emphasize "and" because the transmission controller manufacturer I used had the TPS ground terminated within the harness to the unit's main ground, which I find to be an unthinkable choice. I never had a problem with this. Holley Sniper EFI itself out and hold idleeventually stalling. You are aware of the idle-up problem. Top 10 Sniper EFI Installation Tips from Holley's Tom Kise Thank you for any advice. At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. That is the default "Clear Flood" TPS setting and turns all fuel off until the engine cranks. around 45 mph it bogs down, catches itself, bogs, catches, bogs and catches. We can not hit it at all, we hit the pedal abruptly, the engine gives a lot of excess fuel, the AFR gets super poor at first, the car stops, then the AFR gets super rich and the car runs until it cleans up. However I do have a couple of issues I hope you can help me resolve. Look over all of your vacuum lines and fittings. Since it is unlikely that anything else changed it is most likely the IAC is problematic or the butterflies are not shut all the way. The only other thing I changed was accel enrich but whatever way I go doesn't seem to change anything unless I change it drastically. Good Simply use your handheld controller and go to the Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Speed screen and click on the Idle Speed Curve function. By going into the IAC settings and turning off the Idle Spark control and setting Target Idle to 750 RPM my idle issues are gone, and it now returns to desired idle after cruise. In the wizard I set my Idle to 500RPM but it never got slower than 800RPM, if I run the wizard again and lower to 400 RPM then it never gets lower than 700RPM.After reading about the Idle Speed curver I checked its settings and found that the curve was 300rpm faster at every point over the temp range no matter what temp I had, I adjusted the curve to match what I put in on the wizard and now the RPM is correct, I'd say you have a bug in the wizard.Idle Speed > Idle Speed Curve: Here is where the lack of coolant temperature is going to affect you. No matter what do, my idle will not drop below 1350-1400 RPM when the engine warms. Sniper EFI Tuning & Tech. Tuning > Advanced > Adv Idle > IAC Startup Don't know if I should put this in a separate post. No air should be able to pass. Thank you. Wish I knew about it before I made my purchase. Chris thank you for the info. Idle was around 1000 mark and iac 0. >I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. You can find those settings here: Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Rampdown, Software: Idle > IAC Settings > IAC Ramp Down. If you use your handheld to go here: Has a good size camshaft cant find any vacuum leaks. It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. This is actually more troubling than the sound you originally described. I think that the more important point is that Holley kept sending him units until everything was working. My IAC and TPS show zero when it does this. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. The problem I believe this is creating is after I start vehicle (and its still in park), the IAC drops down to my hold percentage of 10% (since throttle % is not 0) before engine is warm and therefore causing the engine to stall out. They are prone to be inaccurate. The car would idle, I could hit the gas rev the car up and it ran great I also noticed two nice black spots on my garage floor from the exhaust. Yes, the sound coming out of your Sniper throttle body is a pulsation from the fuel pump that is pulsing the mechanical fuel pressure regulator. The problem was RF interferance . Sniper EFI Initial Startup and Troubleshooting - Holley And yes, monitoring the fuel pressure is the right answer. Engine Startup Tuning for Sniper and Terminator X Stealth Owners If it does then you can put on a heavier spring so the advance doesn't come in as fast, or use a lighter weight. I presume your idle speed table doesn't increase at 200 degrees? Then a little faster--until bogs at that level work themselves out. The Sniper even has a feature that allows it to use the idle timing to control the idle speed. An under-sized filter will allow part- throttle operation but fuel pressure will drop at WOT and run very lean - perhaps surge under power. You will need to change the -40 degree idle speed setting again but I recommend not touching anything else. Member List; Calendar; Forum; Holley EFI; Sniper EFI; If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. But they are 100% committed to your satisfaction. Seems like its too slow to grab idle when ac kicks on. no timing control. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot. I hold my foot steady in place it does this in 5 second cycles and if i let go of shut truck off. It is always best to get the base map as close as possible before adding acceleration enrichment. At idle my IAC is 3-4, AFR around 13-14, TPS is 0, timing 15-17. When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. We've already tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment chart in all ways, going up and down, RoC Blanking, everything, it has no effect. If you haven't installed a I have adjusted many settings and eventually mess it up and go back to the original map. I installed Holley Sniper on three other Mavericks here in Brazil and the problem also exists.I did not make any changes to the parameters, only on Target AFR and the correction on the Idle Speed Curve chart. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pressure--- since I have a new Spectra EFI tank and there's been some reports of the interior coating coming off and gumming up the pump however the sniper display DOES NOT show fuel pressure.the Sniper DOES measure fuel pressure on its own - i've confirmed that with holley techs as they told me to purchase the fuel pressure gauge that can just hook up to the 1 wire gauge harness from the Sniper. Just add 5 or 10 degrees of advance and see if it doesn't idle better. The IAC going to 30 is normal. I called support line he said he would have to look into it and call back. Cracked casing from a side cover screw being installed crossed threaded. All times are GMT-6. When I shut it off then start it when things aren't working and this provides just that. Should the iac% fluctuate? Unless you have ignition control enabled, that is the only thing it can do to reduce the idle.Realize the only things that can cause the car to idle up as you describe are air and ignition advance. At that point the tps is pretty high, then shut the ignition off, pull the tape restart the engine and idle goes into hold mode and idle is through the roof. It will drop down to 400 RPM then climb 500 and then shoot to 900 and then come back sometimes two or three times then catch it self an idle just fine again. Thanks Again for your help. What could be the cause? I used the Casper's Electronics 108103 splitter and carefully soldered my connections. Or, at least, it should. So I have been doing the slow take offs and thinking that it would learn its way out. Have you ever experienced a high idle once the engine reaches 200 degrees?Ive set my idle the way you said and it works great until the engine reaches 200 degrees. It really takes a lot of throttle tip-ins before you get anywhere near "learned" in this part of the fuel map.Based on your description, it sounds like you have a lean stumble. Great work, expert! If I try and get the 2-10% i get all the way up to 1200 rpm. With the vehicle in neutral, adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 and 10%. Coming home from work today it was much warmer and took a little longer due to traffic. That, I am afraid, is going to involve a little bit of luck if you don't want to create a 250 MB data log. Cycled the ignition off. And, while that is happening, make a note of the temperature before you engage the starter, and then the rpm when it starts.The Idle Parked Position is set on a temperature-based graph like the Idle Speed Curve. Also when ac kicks on it will idle down and stall. Maybe Holley will add Fuel Prime Multiplier to Terminator X later. )Since this isn't a consistent issue with all Snipers that tells me that different IAC settings tend to make the whistle. It does this with the engine off. I did change the -40 thing also. It meets the target idle perfectly in either but if I lightly stab the throttle it tries to stall after slightly revving. Without it you are working in the dark. The Sniper resets the TPS to 0% each time that you key the system on. engine works beautiful, the car runs a lot, but suddenly, the engine does that. Those don't impact the way the engine runs and can cause the whistle sound you describe. There is a chance that the IAC is open but displaying 0% so start by putting your finger over the IAC opening. Fuel Flow lb / h = 12.1 Thanks, That is an strange situation. He said they have been having an issue with these lately. All in all, considering the system has been installed for less than 2 hours drive time we're BLOWN AWAY at how quickly it is "learning" this engine. If not then I think you are going to find that this will solve much of your problem. We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. There's nothing wrong with manual tuning, but at this point that is just compensating for an inadequate fuel map. The engine makes very low vacuum at idle. IAC Creeps To 100% - Holley Performance Products Forums I'll give the ". An undersized or partially plugged fuel filter is a classic EFI installation mistake. I hope everyone enjoys this v. A simple remove & clean will remedy this . I think that your Sniper system is working fine but would definitely check ouf the fuel pump. I have a feeling it's something simple but I thought I'd ask you first before I inadvertently change something that affects other areas. I've abbreviated it just a little bit but am appreciative of the added insight your comments provided.Off-idle performance can really be a challenge to self-learn but be assured that it can almost always be done. So if you are trying to achieve a stoichiometric mixture in ethanol (which is achieved at an AFR of 9.0:1) then you should continue to target 14.7:1 since that is what will be displayed. Contact whomever sold you your system or Holley directly. Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems. But before you adjust the ECU to lean the idle out, first confirm that your fuel pressure is right. Yes, having an accurate TPS is very important at idle. back upthe RPMs shoot up to anywhere between 1500 and 2000 and they will not get The ticking is inline with the fuel pressure I feel squeezing both the fuel return & delivery lines (like a heartbeat). But I am having troubles.When stepping on the accelerator slightly with idling, it will be 2000 RPM all the time. Shut it off and immediately restarted and idle was now 880 with IAC at 8.If this is a vacuum leak I can't figure out what would cause it to go away immediately after shutting down the car and restarting. Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? knowledge with the sniper efi setup. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. Thanks for your very detailed question! hard start about 1/2 throttle from stop it bogs down after 3 or 4 seconds.What I Throttle Tip-In puts you in a part of the fuel map where you stay for only milliseconds at a time. I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. I believe that for the HyperSpark the Reference Angle should be 57.5. Now it's at 5% on a big cam 440 Mopar. If it is then something is commanding the ECU to open the IAC. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. If you go too low then it may stumble or even stall when coming off of throttle. And your question is very perceptive: You must first know whether the bog is a lean or a rich condition before you can make the correct adjustments. To keep it running in gear, I have to bump the neutral idle up just over 1000 RPM. Well you were right air was entering from another source. I would start by datalogging the situation and seeing exactly what your learn table looks like in the area immediately around the tip-in. If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. Yes, you are correct. Some have suggested mis-setting sets the idle speed at 850 RPM but I suspect it is not a fixed number but rather a delta of about 300 RPM above the target. I am new to the EFI scene but want to learn. If you did not rotate the distributor to set the actual timing to 15 that might be the only issue. As always, I recommend great restraint in changing any of the parameters until a significant amount of learning has taken place. That is not something I'd ignore. If the engine idles at 750 RPM with the throttle plates all the way closed and the IAC at zero then there is some sort of an issue. Make sure that your blanking level is _below_ that (being careful not to find yourself in the situation I describe above.) I have now determined with the TPS the noise correlates with the opening of the secondary butterflies. It's not necessary to drive it that way. One of the signs of a vehicle with a rough idle is a faulty Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor. That could be a problem with the TPS or it could be some sort of throttle linkage issue. If not then you have some other issue that is behind this increased idle. But I think it is safe to say that you are now at a point were some manual tuning is a good idea. Thanks in advance for any advice. Ive played with the timing on this thing multiple times.Car was fullly restored last year.
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